This series of articles will be devoted to the most basic deck designs in PEZ. The articles will analyze the decks, teach you the basic building blocks and analyze the most attractive cards to put in your own builds. The point is not to build the decks for you but to give new players a feel for the deck and experienced players a list of odd cards that I think may prove to be ‘good tech’ in the hands of a witty rogue. A lot of this is a list of card names (I will try to go from the usual choices to the most unusual) – including full card text would land me in an asylum – use www.crystalkeep.com (this is the official PEZ source for rulings, rarity, and card text) to find full card text for cards that interest you. I hope you enjoy them and please post the decks you build on our Peasant Magic Archive!


The Basic Peasant Part 2 – Sligh (Part 1 of 2)


There are days that I feel old. One of the things that always makes me feel old is when someone shows me their new Sligh design. Usually this is a bunch of burn and cheap creatures and I have to shake my head and sigh. This is not Sligh - if only people would pay attention to their M:tG history. Well, what is Sligh?


Sligh was born way back in ‘96 (this was a few years after we were all trading away our Moxes for Serra Angels; you have to go way back for that kind of action). It was the stupidest deck of its time using cards that nobody except newbies played. Magic has never been the same since. I should note that it was originally called Geeba not Sligh (Paul Sligh was the first to pilot it and that kind of caught on). It is a very specific type of deck build with very specific rules and conventions - more on that latter.


Anyway, those people that don’t equate any Red deck with Sligh often claim that Sligh is all about the mana curve. They say that this is what defines a Sligh deck. Yes, this is true but only to an extent. Sligh does use a very specific mana curve and we will detail that in a minute. What is important to note are the other critical aspects of Sligh: 1) every card (other than, in most cases, lands) is capable of winning the game, 2) Every card can generate advantage (either card or cost) and 3) No combos because combos are bad.


If you want to build a Red deck that doesn’t perfectly fit these conventions don’t worry about it. This article will help you out anyway and its not like you can’t win if your Red deck isn’t Sligh.


The nice thing about building Sligh in PEZ is that you don’t lose a whole lot. Sure Goblin Piledriver and Blistering Firecat (or for players like me: Orcish Librarian and Mana Barbs) are out. But the core of the deck remains. Really, it is the deck building rules that make Sligh playable not the cards (well, to some extent anyway).


The Build and the Curve


All I need, well almost, to teach you about Sligh is in the following table (these are my numbers, traditional Sligh numbers will be enclosed []):


Land: 21-24 (14-18 Mountains) [23-26 (15-17 Mountains)]

1 Cost Creatures: 10-14 [9-13]

2 Cost Creatures: 7-9 [6-8]

3 Cost Creatures: 3-5

4 Cost Creatures: 0-3 [1-3]

X Cost Spells: 0-3 [2-3]

Low Cost Burn: 8-12 [8-10]


As much as I harped on it before, breaking the curve a bit doesn’t disqualify a deck as Sligh. As with all rules you have to know when a specific situation, format, or environment will alter the rules and you better be flexible and go along with it. Anyway, the point of that chart is to make the most efficient use of your mana. The ideal is to use all your mana every turn and the proper curve makes that possible. Because of the speed in PEZ, I have tried to shift the curve to the left (lower cost) just a smidgen.


The next step is, of course, deciding what goes in. It is absolutely essential that you find the most effective card for each slot. That last word is important - when building decks that try to stay tight to a curve the cards are important to a degree, but it is the slot they fill that is most important. Remember - find the best card for the slot not the slot for the best cards.


This begs the question of what is an efficient or effective card. For creatures look for the following: 1) Power is greater than CC, 2) They have a direct damage ability, 3) They grant some form of board control or card advantage. If a creature doesn’t have at least one of these things going for it then leave it out. For spells, you want the most efficient cards that can remove another card (especially a creature) from the board. There are some possible cards that will break this rule but you will never hurt yourself by sticking to it.


Things to Keep in Mind


When in doubt between two cards, always look to the more aggressive of the two. If you can’t determine which would be better, figure out which card is useful in the most situations and against the most decks. You can also create a chart and look at which card produces the most damage over the fewest number of turns (for permanents at least).


As much as Sligh is about beat down, don’t forget that most Sligh decks also control the board. If you ignore board control too much you will quickly find yourself losing games.


All burn in Sligh is for targeting creatures first. No spell that only targets an opponent should be included, but spells that allow for any target should be preferred.


Your creatures shouldn’t be blocking and you should always have more life than the opponent. Don’t worry about defense or about taking damage. The object is to dismantle the opponent long before you die. Also, never fear trading creatures with an opponent, in most matches 1:1 trades will favor you.


Combos are bad. They are not your friend. Every card should be good on its own and provide some advantage on its own. If cards work well together that is fine but they must be just as good as any other card choice to be included in the deck.


As much as I dislike the idea of ‘Shock and Awe’ tactics in real life that is what you should be thinking when you design Sligh.


Next Week


Next week I will walk through the card list for you all. See you then!


Jason Chapman – chaps_man@hotmail.com